The Journey of Tokyo’s Fish Market: 400 Years of History
To understand why Ginza is the heart of Tokyo’s sushi culture, you must understand the story of the fish market – a story that spans four centuries and three locations: Nihonbashi, Tsukiji, and Toyosu.
Nihonbashi Fish Market (1603-1923): The Beginning
When Tokugawa Ieyasu established the Edo Shogunate in 1603, he invited fishermen from Osaka to supply fish to Edo Castle. These fishermen settled in an area called Tsukudajima and were granted special fishing rights in Edo Bay. The surplus fish they caught was sold at Nihonbashi Bridge, creating the first “Uogashi” (魚河岸) – fish market.
For over 300 years, Nihonbashi was the center of Tokyo’s fish trade. The market was not just a place of commerce – it was where the techniques and traditions of handling, preserving, and preparing fish were developed and passed down. The proximity of Nihonbashi to Ginza (just a 10-minute walk) meant that the freshest fish was always available to Ginza’s emerging restaurant culture.
The Great Kanto Earthquake and the Move to Tsukiji (1923)
On September 1, 1923, the Great Kanto Earthquake devastated Tokyo. The Nihonbashi Fish Market was completely destroyed by fire. The government decided to rebuild the market in Tsukiji, a reclaimed land area originally created in the 17th century after a great fire in Edo.
The transition was not easy. The fishmongers of Nihonbashi had centuries-old customs, special rights, and established ways of doing business. Transforming this traditional merchant market into a modern “Central Wholesale Market” (中央卸売市場) with new regulations and business structures led to conflicts and even social unrest. However, after years of negotiation and adjustment, Tsukiji Market officially opened on February 11, 1935.
Tsukiji Market Era (1935-2018): The Golden Age
Tsukiji Market grew to become the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world, handling over 400,000 tons of seafood annually and offering approximately 480 species of marine products. It was not just a market – it was a cultural icon.
The market’s location, just 1.5 kilometers from Ginza, created a unique relationship. Every morning before dawn, sushi chefs from Ginza would visit Tsukiji to select the finest fish. The famous tuna auctions, where a single bluefin tuna could sell for over $3 million USD, became legendary. The “Tsukiji Outer Market” (築地場外市場), with over 400 shops and restaurants, became a tourist destination where visitors could experience the energy and culture of Tokyo’s food scene.
For sushi restaurants in Ginza, Tsukiji was not just a supplier – it was a partner. The relationships between sushi chefs and Tsukiji’s intermediate wholesalers (仲卸, nakaoroshi) were built over decades. These wholesalers used their expert knowledge to reserve the best fish for their trusted chef partners. This system of trust and expertise is what allowed Ginza’s sushi restaurants to maintain their legendary quality.
The Move to Toyosu (2018): A New Chapter
After years of debate and controversy, Tsukiji Market relocated to Toyosu on October 11, 2018. The reasons for the move included:
- Facility aging: Tsukiji’s buildings were over 80 years old
- Space constraints: The market had become too crowded for modern operations
- Hygiene standards: Toyosu offers closed, temperature-controlled facilities
Toyosu Market is approximately 1.7 times larger than Tsukiji (40 hectares vs. 23 hectares) and features state-of-the-art facilities:
What This Means for Ginza Sushi
While Toyosu is farther from Ginza than Tsukiji (about 4 kilometers vs. 1.5 kilometers), the essence of the relationship remains unchanged. Ginza sushi chefs continue their daily pilgrimage to the market, maintaining the same trusted relationships with intermediate wholesalers who know their preferences and standards.
The Tsukiji Outer Market still thrives, with over 400 shops and restaurants continuing to serve locals and tourists. The area remains a vital part of Tokyo’s food culture, even as the wholesale market has moved to Toyosu.
When you eat sushi in Ginza, the fish on your plate has traveled through four centuries of tradition – from the fishermen of Tsukudajima, through the markets of Nihonbashi, Tsukiji, and now Toyosu, arriving at your table thanks to a network of expertise, trust, and dedication that has been refined over 400 years.
